DIY Oktoberfest Attire - How to Sew a Dirndl?

Dirndl dresses may seem like simple dresses, but stitching one may take a few hours for a professional or days for someone new to this skill. The very first step to stitching Oktoberfest attire is getting the condiments ready, which is needed to successfully carry out the project.

Following the sewing process diligently and precisely results in an elegant dirndl dress, perfect for the Bavarian Beerfest.

Getting Things Ready to DIY Dirndl 

A few things are needed to sew the dirndl dress yourself. It's a must to have them ready before starting the stitching process!

• Fabrics

• Scissors

• Thread

• Button

• Ribbon

• Elastic band

• Marking Chalks

• Sewing Machine

What Fabric is Needed to Stitch a Dirndl?

Dirndl skirt and bodice can be made from a single fabric or a combination of two. The colors and patterns of the two fabrics used should complement each other. Woven, non-stretch fabrics are unsuitable for making dirndl as stretchy materials shouldn't be used. Non-stretch fabric options include:

• Linen

• Velvet

• Jacquard

• Cotton batiste

• Fine corduroy

For this pattern, 2 meters of half-linen fabric is needed. Half-linen resists wrinkles while maintaining the natural texture of linen, making it both practical and elegant. A comfortable cotton fabric is ideal for the bodice lining. Vlieseline H410 is needed as an interlining for the bodice. The piping, a signature detail of dirndls, can be made from the main fabric or purchased pre-made to match.

Sewing the Dirndl Components 

Stitching the dirndl is a step-by-step process that requires stitching all the different components separately and combining them next. 

Stitching the Bodice

A few important steps go into stitching the bodice, which results in a well-fitted silhouette. 

Step 1: Prepare the Piping

• Cut a bias strip and place a cotton cord (about 3 mm thick) inside.

• Fold the strip over the cord, put the opposite sides together, and pin the open edges together.

• Use a zipper foot to sew closely along the cord without stitching it in place. Ensure the piping is tight and smooth.

Step 2: Attach Piping to the Back Piece

• Pin the piping to the back piece's princess seams (curves), right sides together.

• Sew the piping onto the seams using the zipper foot, following the existing piping seam.

• Trim the piping at the edges and ensure a neat finish.

Step 3: Assemble the Back Piece

• Place the side back pieces on the back piece, right sides together. Pin along the princess seams.

• Sew along the same seam where the piping was attached, ensuring alignment.

• Trim the seam allowances in the curves with small cuts (triangles) for flexibility and press the seams toward the center back.

Step 4: Set Up the Front Pieces

• Secure the side front pieces to the center front pieces with the help of a pin, right sides together. Align the curves and notches carefully.

• Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.

• Trim seam allowances in the curves with small cuts and press seams neatly toward the center front.

Step 5: Attach Front and Back Pieces

• Place the front and back cuttings at the right sides and pin along the shoulder seams.

• Sew the shoulder seams with a 1-cm allowance and press them open.

Step 6: Attach the Lining

• Sew the lining pieces like the outer fabric for the back and front sections.

• Attach the lining to the bodice, placing them on the right sides together. Pin at the neckline and front edges.

• Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, ensuring the ruffles (if used) are sewn in between the fabric and lining.

• Trim seam allowances, clip curves, and press the bodice neatly before turning it right side out.

Step 7: Finish the Side Seams

• Edge the side seams with bias tape for neatness. Pin the bias tape along the seam, sew, fold it inward, and stitch it in place.

• The side seams should be closed with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Test the fit with temporary stitching before finalizing.

Step 8: Add Sleeves (Optional)

• Prepare the sleeves by sewing the elastic casing and gathering the top edge to create puff sleeves.

• Pin and sew the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together, ensuring they gather evenly at the shoulder.

Stitching the Dirndl Skirt

The Dirndl skirt is stitched differently as it is attached to the bodice of the dress. The process is simple yet requires focus.

Step 1: Join the Fabric

• Sew the two skirt fabric pieces together along one side to form the center back seam.

• Trim the selvages and press the seam allowances open for a smooth finish.

Step 2: Mark the Pleats

• Use chalk or a fabric marker to alternately mark the fold contents and fold directions on the fabric.

• Begin at the center back and work outwards to create evenly spaced pleats.

Step 3: Pin the Pleats

• Place the first mark for the fold content on the center back mark and pin it securely.

• Skip the fold view marking and use the next fold content mark to continue pinning.

• Repeat the process on both sides, left and right, starting from the center back. Ensure the front (belly) section remains flat.

Step 4: Secure the Pleats

• Once all pleats are pinned in place, stitch them down with a 0.5 cm seam allowance to keep them secure.

Step 5: Determine the Waistline

• To align the skirt with the bodice, determine the exact height of your waist.

• Wear the bodice and pin the front centers together. Check the placement of shoulder seams and sleeves for accuracy.

• Use string or measuring tape to mark the narrowest part of your waist naturally. Fasten the tape and mark the waistline with pins.

Step 6: Final Adjustments

• Add a 1 cm seam allowance to the waistline markings.

• Trim the bodice to the desired length before attaching the skirt.

Stitching the Bodice to Skirt

• Place the bodice on the table with the right side facing up. Mark the center back on the back piece. Turn the bodice so the bottom edge is at the top. 

• Align the skirt with the bodice, placing them on the right sides together. Pin the skirt's centre-back seam to the bodice's center-back. 

• Attach the skirt to the bodice gradually, section by section, for the straight and neat pleats. Treat the lining and outer fabric of the bodice as a single layer.

• The skirt should extend about 3 cm beyond the front edges of the bodice. If the skirt extends further due to folding or curved seams, trim the seam allowance to 3 cm and neaten the edges. 

• Fold the 3 cm seam allowance over the front edge of the bodice. Then fold the front edge of the skirt inward by 1.5 cm and secure it with pins. 

• Sew the skirt to the bodice using a 1 cm seam allowance, and finish the seam allowances together for a clean look. 

Sewing the Dirndl Apron

The Dirndl apron is part of the dirndl, but it is not attached to the dress. It is worn separately, and this step can be skipped if a ready-to-wear apron is available.

Step 1: Gather the Apron (Smoking the Substance)

• Take the rectangle fabric for your apron.

• Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and sew six rows along the top edge, spacing them 1 cm apart.

• Do not lock the stitches at the beginning or end; leave the threads longer on both sides.

• Knot the six top and bottom threads together on each side.

• Gently pull the bottom threads to gather the fabric, reducing its width to match your waistband.

• Distribute the folds evenly across the width, keeping the outer edges smooth (leave 1.5 cm on each side for seam allowance).

• Once adjusted, knot the threads again and trim any excess.

Step 2: Hem the Edges

• Fold the outer edges of the apron by 1.5 cm, iron them, and then fold again to hide the raw edges.

• Pin the folds in place and sew to secure the hem.

Step 3: Attach the Waistband

• Take one waistband piece and pin it to the top gathered edge of the apron, aligning the right sides of the fabric together.

• Sew the waistband to the apron using a 1 cm seam allowance.

• Iron the seam allowance upward into the waistband.

• Place the second waistband piece over the first, right sides together, and sew along the top edge with a 1 cm seam allowance.

• Iron the seam allowances flat.

Step 4: Make the Ties (Ribbons)

• Fold each tie lengthwise, right sides together, and pin along the edges.

• At one end, draw a diagonal line for a bevelled corner.

• Sew along the long edges and the diagonal, leaving the other short end open.

• Turn the ties right side out, then iron them flat.

• Use a pin to gently pull out the fabric along the seam lines for crisp edges.

Step 5: Attach the Ties

• Position the ties so the raw edges of the ties align with the bottom edge of the waistband.

• If the ties are wider than the waistband, fold the edges of the ties to fit and secure with pins.

• Pin the ties to the back waistband with their raw edges facing downward.

• Fold the upper waistband down over the ties, aligning the edges.

• Stitch the short sides of the waistband, securing the ties in place, with a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

• Fold the remaining open edge of the back waistband inward and pin it to the seam of the front waistband.

Step 6: Finish the Apron

• Topstitch the waistband close to the edge from the front side.

• Adjust the apron length to be 2–3 cm shorter than the skirt.

• Fold the bottom hem of the apron twice (6–10 cm), pin it, and sew it in place either by machine or by hand.

Wrapping It Up!

A lot goes into stitching a dirndl as a DIY project. Some necessary arrangements are needed, and with a few steps and professional guidance, traditional Oktoberfest attire is ready to wear. 

The dirndl sewing process requires a lot of hard work, and if someone is inclined to buy a ready-made dirndl, “Oktoberfest Wear” is the place to shop for a high-quality traditional outfit!